Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt it generously, it should taste like the sea. This is where the pasta gets its flavor and it is not a step to be shy about.

Heat the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook gently for 2 to 3 minutes, until pale golden and fragrant. Do not let it go dark, bitter garlic is a difficult thing to come back from.

Add the crushed tomatoes and chili flakes if using. Season with salt. Let the sauce simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it thickens and deepens in color.

Cook the bucatini according to the packet instructions until just al dente. Reserve a generous cup of the pasta water before draining.

Add the drained bucatini to the sauce and toss over medium heat, adding splashes of pasta water until the sauce is glossy and clings to every strand. The pasta water is not optional, it is what ties everything together.

Remove from heat, tear in the basil, and toss once more. Divide between bowls, drizzle with a little more olive oil, and finish with as much cheese as you feel is appropriate. I feel a lot is appropriate.